Frequently Asked Questions

National cost guides put new asphalt driveways at about $5 to $12 or more per square foot installed. A 600-square-foot driveway runs roughly $3,000 to $7,200 in HomeGuide's figures. Removal, base work, slope and access move the price, and the written estimate after a site visit is the actual number.

We do. We cut out failed areas, repair the base under them and patch with hot asphalt. We also fill potholes and repair utility cuts and settled areas near garages.

HomeGuide lists a resealing interval of 2 to 10 years depending on sealer and climate. With Utah's strong sun, most homeowners do well sealing every few years. Fill cracks before sealing.

Both work. Asphalt is usually cheaper up front, is easy to patch, and handles freeze-thaw movement well, but it needs regular sealing. Concrete costs more, lasts longer and can be damaged by de-icing salt. Many Lehi homes pair a concrete driveway with an asphalt RV pad or extension.

Roughly spring through fall. Hot mix only compacts properly on warm ground, so an early cold snap in fall or a late one in spring can shift dates.

Yes. Asphalt RV pads and side extensions next to concrete driveways are common. We set the asphalt flush with the concrete edge and grade it to drain.

Work on your own lot often does not, but widening or adding a drive approach in the city right-of-way does. Lehi requires permits and inspection for right-of-way work and has spacing rules for drive approaches.

For cars on a well-built base, 2 to 3 inches compacted is typical. For trucks, trailers or RVs, 3 to 4 inches over a thicker base is safer.

HomeGuide gives 15 to 30 years with proper installation and upkeep. Sealing and crack filling make the biggest difference in Utah's sun and freeze-thaw.

No. Give it a few days, longer in summer heat. We give you timing for your job.

Salt is harder on concrete than on asphalt, but salty meltwater in cracks still speeds up freeze-thaw damage. Sealing cracks helps.

Yes. We pave driveways for new homes once the concrete approach and utilities are in.

Thicker than a driveway. Cost guides suggest 3 to 4 inches of asphalt over 8 to 10 inches of base for heavier vehicles. We size it to your RV or trailer.

Asphalt costs less up front and is easy to patch. Concrete lasts longer but costs more. Both work if the base is right.

Many HOAs have rules on RV parking and side-yard surfaces. Check your CC&Rs before scheduling.

We mark where they are likely to be. Lines under the pad area should be moved or sleeved before we dig.

Usually. We phase the work so part of the lot stays open.

Yes. The Department of Justice considers restriping an alteration, so the 2010 ADA Standards apply.

Yes. We crack seal, patch, overlay, sealcoat and stripe HOA private roads and amenity lots.

Every few years for most lots, with crack sealing every fall before the first hard freeze.

Freeze-thaw. Meltwater gets into cracks, freezes and expands. Over a winter, that breaks the pavement apart.

We can place a temporary cold patch. Lasting hot-mix patches wait for warmer ground.

Usually a settled utility trench. We cut out the low section, compact new base and patch it.

If damage is limited, repair. If it covers much of the driveway, replacement or an overlay is usually better value.

Late summer or fall, before the first hard freeze, is ideal.

Pourable fillers can help on narrow cracks, but hot rubberized sealant bonds better and stays flexible through freeze-thaw.

No. Alligator cracking means the base has failed, and those areas need to be patched.

Several years in many cases. New cracks form over time, so an annual check is a good habit.

HomeGuide recommends waiting 3 to 6 months so the asphalt can cure.

Every few years for most driveways. Coats applied too often stack up and start to flake.

Yes. RV pads sit in the sun all year and benefit from sealing like the rest of the driveway.

Usually 12 to 72 hours depending on temperature and sealer.